Appreciating Athens + Reuniting with a Friend

The Prison of Socrates | Athens, Greece

So, Athens! Let me start by saying that Athens--the historic capital of Greece, mentioned in the Bible, the birthplace of many our modern philosophical frameworks, home to the Acropolis--is not representative of the rest of Greece. Yes, it is undoubtedly an indispensable contributor to the culture, economy, politics, and Greek identity. But, as a destination, it offers a distinct experience and environment from the villages and islands. When I tell you that I enjoy living in Greece, Athens is furthest from my mind. Of course, many love it. Its merits are obvious (Check out Stefanos Addimando, @stef_greece, for all things Greek travel): the ancient history, the art scene, and the gastronomy.

But, even when you ask those who live in Athens and enjoy it, they will likely acknowledge the harder aspects of life in the capital city: higher crime rates than the rest of the country, ethnic and religious tensions between immigrant and Greek communities, visible wealth inequality, substantial overcrowding, among other concerns. Most people (Greek and foreign) who have spent time in Athens have incurred some kind of mishap in the city. Typically, these have to do with having wallets swiped or accidently hailing an illegitimate taxi. (Note: I recommend downloading the certified taxi app, FreeNow, before traveling to Athens; it was a lifesaver for me in Barcelona, too.)

Athens at night through my taxi's window. | November 2023

It's almost like a rite of passage to come up against the rougher aspects of Athens and to make it through. For me, it manifested in overt racial and ethnic prejudice. On my way to Turkey in October, I took the local bus from the KTEL Central Bus Station in Athens to the airport (αεροδρόμιο / aerodrómio). The treatment I received from two female Greek passengers was the first time I'd been mistreated and spoken to poorly on the grounds of my skin color and (presumed) origin since I'd left the US in May. Athens holds many treasures. But, it can be hard and cruel, too.

Suffice it to say, Athens is not a place where I go to find refuge. Retreat to for peace. Or, honestly, even a place I enjoy now that I've seen the sights and done the things on my destination bucket list. Now, that doesn't mean I haven't been to the city many times and will go many more before the 2 years on my digital nomad visa here are through. While Kalamata--the Peloponnese city by the sea where I live--has an airport, there aren't always flights to where I wish to travel; and, it closes down in the Winter. As a result, I've become very familiar with the 3-4-hour KTEL bus route from Kalamata to Athens. (You can find bus routes + purchase tickets for destinations in Messenia and Athens here.)

En route to Athens. The highway alternates between expansive sea views and olive green mountainous landscapes. | November 2023

I kinda love this highway. Winding through the mountains. Skirting by the sea. Passing over the famous Corinth Canal. I am writing this sentence to you while passing through a tunnel along said highway. A γιαγιά (a Greek grandmother and the pillars of Greek society) dressed in the traditional, all black widow's ensemble is talking on the phone VERY LOUDLY two rows behind me. My seatmate just woke up from a nap; she's now also chatting on the phone (at a more reasonable volume) about what she and her friends will do on Friday when they meet up. (Yes, my Greek has reached an eavesdropping level of fluency!) Apart from this sudden burst of chatter, the bus rides tend to be fairly quiet and an excellent occasion for reflection.

If I'm not going to Athens to catch a flight, then I'm going there to meet up with a friend. Given Kalamata's less than central location, many international friends simply can't make it out this way. It's much more time and cost-effective for us to rendezvous in Athens. And, I'm happy to do so! In September, I met my friends, Julia and Cory, here on their way to a wedding in the UK.

Grace (a.k.a. Chela) and I with our gelatos. | Athens, Greece

A couple weeks ago, a friend, Grace, who I haven't seen since our mutual friend, Jessa's, wedding in 2019, reached out. She told me that she'd be in Athens for a few days for a public health conference--how could we be so near and not see each other? Grace is the kind of person whose effervescent warmth and sincerity makes you feel like you've known her all your life--even if you two have just met. Despite all the years and relocations and general life happenings, it was like no time had passed!

We went for an early dinner at A Little Taste of Home and then strolled around the bustling city blocks with oh-so-creamy gelatos from Gelato Di Nonna. We talked about our hopes for the future, what we're learning in our 20s, commiserated over the dating scenes in our respective cities (both the promising and the tragically comedic), and celebrated each other's journeys thus far. For the first time, I felt peaceful in Athens. Surrounded by the realities of this city--beautiful and hard all at once--we'd created a refuge.

Friendship and fellowship are powerful like that. They make us richer. They (re)ground us. They can even transform how we experience our circumstances and remember the places we've been.

I can't say that Athens has moved up on my list of favorite places to be in the world, but I do smile now when it comes to mind.

Τα λέμε! (See ya!)

XO,

Nikki

P.S. Every now and again, God sends me reminders that He sees me, hears me, and is with me. On the way to meet up with Grace, I stopped at a Ukrainian café, Cafe Bar 67, in the Exarchia neighborhood for breakfast, and--what are the odds--they had Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee on the menu. WHAT A TREAT! This Daughter of the Jamaican Diaspora's heart SOARED--I'm still alight with joy.