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Early Days in Greece + Summer Love

  • Writer: Nicole Woolcock
    Nicole Woolcock
  • Jul 23, 2023
  • 3 min read

Marathi, Crete | Photo taken by a sweet Lebanese couple who live in Berlin, Germany, after an afternoon of paddleboarding + jumping off the cove's cliff walls into the sea. Everyday I meet people from differently parts of world--we commiserate over shared experiences and share pieces of our unique backgrounds. Whether someone is an excursion buddy for one afternoon or becomes a long-distance friend, it's always worthwhile to welcome the company and fellowship of others.

Whew! Where to begin??


First, I want to acknowledge that more than a month (although it feels like 6 months for me!) has passed since the last blog entry. I spent the time soaking up the wild beauty and characteristic hospitality of Crete and, most recently, settling into Kalamata--a city-that-feels-like-a-small-town nestled into the Peloponnese Coast.

Havana, Cuba | My baby-faced self back in 2015 when I stopped to play with a neighbor's perrito after a particularly tough week of solo exploration and studies. The 19-year-old version of myself would be over the moon to know that she no longer feels nervous before starting conversations with new people in a foreign language and walks with the confidence she sometimes feigned when overwhelmed by complex, culturally-new situations.

I think it has been since my undergraduate semester studying politics in Havana, Cuba, that daily life has been so rich, bursting with color and texture at every turn. At the start of this year, I contemplated whether 2023 would be a year where I fell in love…and, at last, it is!


How do I know? No matter the challenge, I am resolved to overcome it. Extra care goes into the simplest of errands. A smile resides on my face. Even mundane moments feel special. I am careful not to plan many trips that might take me too far away for too long. Everything is new, and so much feels possible. Yes, this is how I know I am falling in love with Greece.


Life right about now on a weekday flows as such:

Kalamata, Greece | More or less "perked up" on a 43-degree (C) day. This heatwave is not a joke, and I think I lasted outside long enough to pick up bougatsa and a freddo across the street before taking cover back at the loft.

7:45 - Local church bells ring and welcome a new day


8:30 - Time to perk up, cover myself from head-to-toe in sunscreen,


and be careful not to slip on the beautiful but slick winding marble staircase (again) leading from my lofted accommodations down to the street


9:30 - Greet passersby with Kalimera (Καλημέρα) as I walk or take the bus to work out at Collective Gym or swim in the sea (Thalassa / θαλασσα) (strategically choosing the most shady sidewalks along the way)

11:30 - Sit down at a café with a glass of water, freddo cappuccino, and fresh orange (portokáli / πορτοκάλι) juice with some type of fruit bowl with yoghurt and honey (yes, a bit much for some, but I like to start the day with these 3 beverages)…study Greek language flashcards and make friendly conversation with those around me in Español, my baby-level Greek, and English

13:00 - Now, with the record heatwave, the sun is nothing short of blazing - it's time to retreat somewhere cool and greet those along the way with Kalispera (καλησπερα)

14:00 - Either post up on a covered café patio for lunch (pasta has been the dish of choice) in hopes of meeting someone new or make-do with a quick bite back at the loft

15:00 - Return to the loft to sign on to a chat with my Spanish conversation partner who lives in neighboring Turkey or savor an air conditioned moment in repose before signing on for work

City Center of Kalamata | View of the mountains one evening as I worked from the balcony -- I'm not sure that I'll ever work from a traditional office again...

15:30 until 23:30 - Work and, as the sun goes down, transition from the cool loft to work al fresco on the balcony as the sun sets, and the night sky slowly obscures Mount Taygetos with its onyx-like darkness

00:00 - Bedtime, relocation logistics planning if I feel inspired to do so, and thanking God that this is life at 27

The in-between moments of this routine are comprised of learning Greek mostly by immersion--I'm growing up all over again. I see people say Parákalo (Παράκαλο), Giassas (γιασσας), Sygnómi (Συγνώμη)…So, like a sponge, I soak it all up. And, when I find myself in a similar circumstance I copy what I've heard: I answer the phone with Parákalo; I depart from talking story with a new acquaintance with Giassas; and, when someone stops me on the street to ask me in Greek for directions, I apologize with Sygnómi that I can't help (yet!!).

For the foreseeable future, I am based here in the Messenia region of Greece. Therefore, there will be numerous opportunities to regale you all with tales, sights, tastes, and sounds of this charming corner of the world. But, for today, let's take a stroll down memory lane and re-visit Crete…

Most Magical Day: Paleochora, Crete

South of Crete | Sweet fruits, a secluded stretch of beach--just me and the Libyan Sea. I spent the 4th of July swimming, sunning, snacking, and, by the end of the day, meeting lovely people who are the reason I will always smile when I recall this too-splendid day.

Most Idyllic Beach: Falasarna, Crete

Falasarna Beach, Crete | Breathtakingly blue! I visited this beach on my last full day in Chania...and a few hours on a sun bed before work put me in my feelings for the rest of the week in Crete: "Is it too soon to leave the island? Am I ready? I needed more time here... I already miss my new friends and the growing familiarity with this place..." Thankfully, I felt the feelings but kept with the plan to head to Kalamata next.


Sweetest Treats: A Russian-inspired dessert at Kapari (Chania) > Panna Cotta at Thea Thalassa (Rethymno) > Scrumptious Smoothie, Freddo Capuccino, and Pancakes at FaVeLa (Heraklion)


Most Delectable Dinner: Thalasino Ageri

Chania, Crete | Walked about 40 minutes across the city from where I stayed at Semeli Studios in Nea Chora to get a table for one (no reservation, but hey, that's a perk of solo travel! Always room for just one!). Not only was the sea bream I ordered heavenly, but watching the sunset as the sea washes over the rocks by one's feet is an unbeatable experience. 10/10 best dinner while in Crete!

One thing I enjoy about Cretan cuisine is its simplicity without sacrificing flavor. Each ingredient has its moment in the dish. Delish!

Happiest Mermaid Moment: Sailing from Kissamos to Gramvousa Island and Balos Lagoon with Falasarna Sailing

Somewhere in the Mediterranean Sea | We paused along the route to Gramvousa to cool off in a little bay. As soon as the skipper gave the all-clear, I abandoned my coverup and jumped into the cerulean waters. It was so very refreshing, and I felt transported to scenes from my childhood daydreams...when I would pretend that I was a magical mermaid, care-free and swimming in open waters...

There's more on the 'gram, and I triple-pinky-promise, to be a more faithful and consistent blogger!

Talk soon…

Xo,

Nikki (Νίκη)

 
 
 

3 Comments


Marisa Vallbona
Marisa Vallbona
Jul 26, 2023

I feel like I'm there with you and I'm so very happy for you. What a wonderful adventure!

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Monica
Monica
Jul 24, 2023

That outdoor dining experience looks AMAZING! I want to eat there!

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Sierra Raequel
Sierra Raequel
Jul 24, 2023

Love love love the hair cut!! And all those dishes look sooo good. You look happy my friend. I love you sooo much!! Keep it coming!

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