From an Endless Summer to a Cozy October
- Nicole Woolcock
- Oct 31, 2023
- 4 min read

Much is made of the "Greek Summer." Greek Autumn, however, not so much. The transition from blazing summer heat to Autumn feels more like an ombre fade and less like a definitive switch from one season to the other. That's not to say Fall in the Peloponnese is not distinct from Summer. The slightly lower temps and general coziness that comes with the back-to-school season and Christmas countdowns have been enough to nudge me into Fall Mode. I've updated my coffee order from a cold freddo cappuccino metrios (μέτριος) to a hot macchiato or vanilla caramel tea; I reach for a sweater before Golden Hour strolls; and, I fantasize about buying devastatingly chic Winter boots.
Kalamata in the Fall is somehow more laidback than in the summer. In July and August, I moved through the days as if wading through molasses. Hot. Regarding the sun as my daily foe. Marking the time of day by the number of cold showers I'd taken and, of course, the siesta hour. September--well, this month deserves its own post or two. But, October's temperatures, pace of life, and general mood can be captured in this one word: relief (anakoúfisi / ανακούφιση).

Tourists have returned to their homes; summer-only restaurants by the sea have shuttered their doors; winter-only spots are now bustling with locals; it's like we've all exhaled and can smile easily once again.
To be honest with you, I think I like Greece (Elláda / Ελλάδα) more now than in Summer. Greek Summer captivates, Greek Autumn restores.
October, for me, has long been a time to reset and recover from whatever excitement, foolishness, or typical life happenings that preceded it. In 2015, sudden changes in my financial situation required me to leave the university and friends and city I so-loved and move to a new state--It was really hard. So, I would drive to Chapel Hill, NC, around October each year to visit my sweet friend, Jessa, at her school. Oh, the best of times were had in those college town cafes, Thai restaurants, salsa nights, and Harvest Festivals!

Even after I moved to San Diego, CA, I kept the tradition. I'd take short trips to recapture that same feeling of renewal. One year, I went on a US National Parks road trip with some girlfriends. Another year, a childhood friend and I got lost hiking in Anza Borrego State Park and kayaked through the La Jolla sea coves. Most years, there were also day trips to meet friends in Santa Monica, at the Huntington Library or solo day trips to hidden beach spots in Laguna Beach, CA.
The destination for this year's October Reset: Antalya, Turkey! Dear friends of mine, Allison and Özgür Jerdan, have been living in Turkey for nearly 10 years. Well, it just so happened, that the first two weeks of October, I'd be between accommodations (ay, ay, HOUSING -- if you ever embark on nomadic life, THIS will be your greatest challenge at one point or another). They extended such wonderful hospitality and welcomed me to come and stay with them.

Ελλάδα and Turkey share a border and surround the same bodies of water. In fact, they are so close that from the most Eastern Greek islands (Samos, Kos, Rhodes, Lesvos, and Chios), one can take a 30-minute ferry and be properly on the Turkish mainland!
Antalya is a southern coastal city nestled between the sparkling Mediterranean Sea and the majestic Taurus Mountains.
There's so much to say and to share…for now, I've picked a few highlights to pique your interest in Turkey as a travel destination, if you haven't previously considered it:
Duden Waterfalls

Bike Rides for Days

Two Words: TURKISH BAZAAR
Any friend of mine knows that I. LOVE. FRUIT. Oh my heavens! What a paradise! Feast your eyes at the endless rows of peppers, fruits, spices, and all-things-possibly pickled!
Ancient Ruins + Morning Hikes

Turkey overflows with history. And, thankfully, a good deal remains for us to enjoy. One morning, Allison and I with the kids hiked to the Ancient Ruins of Termessos. It's also known as the city that Alexander the Great could not conquer!
Sunrise SUP + Cave Exploration in Konyaalti
I never expected caves to feature in my travels as much they have. I've now spelunked, toured, kayaked, and paddled in caves all over! These caves lining the coast of Turkey are some of my favorites so far. There's one particular cave entry that can only be made by lying totally flat on one's back as the waves usher you through the narrow opening. Once fully in the cave (watch your head!), you can sit up once again and admire the glowing turquoise waters below you. Light shines only through the ring-shaped crack in the cave's ceiling. Of course, friendly bats are squeaking in the background, too. Sublime!
Affogato Applause
Behold! The most indulgent, creamiest, purely delectable affogatos. My friend, Allison, and her littlest one, Seher, and I went to Incommon for a lil' coffee date. (Great spot to work from, too.) The cafe scene in Antalya is unmatched: always delicious, open late, and an ambiance to suit any mood...hayycoffee :) (affogato on the right) might be my favorite cafe of the ones I visited...I'll need to go back to be sure! ;)
I'll be back in Antalya for Christmas and New Years, and I cannot wait. I miss my friends, their kiddos, and the charms of the city. There's much more to explore in greater Turkey, and I plan to do just that! After two lovely weeks with my friends, I returned home to Kalamata and received the keys to a cute flat with a small garden and front porch. At last, long-term housing!
Aren't Octobers just the best?
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